Alex Luger

Sport

Climb

Hometown

Dornbirn, Austria

Hometown

Dornbirn, Austria

Sport

Climb

Growing up as a climber in a climbing family, in a nation dominated by the Alps, meant Austria’s Alex Luger has always asked: is there anything left? Are there “king lines” left on the large walls of the Northern Limestone Alps, for someone who hungers for challenge to test himself against? Gaining admiration as a powerful all round climber since he was in his early twenties, Alex climbed his way through a Sports Science degree gaining enough sponsorships before he’d graduated that he was climbing professionally straight out of University. He found those king lines and climbed them according to the ethic that made the experience the most fulfilling to him: from the ground up, without scouting from above, using trad gear and natural protection as much as possible. It might take years, as it did for him to complete The Gift, but that is suitable recognition that rock is a finite resource; there is not an endless source of cool lines; it’s okay to preserve something for the next generation. Alex appreciates the way climbing is an opportunity to encounter yourself, and other people, operating beyond the comfort zone – a telling place, and one that is deeply engaging for a philosopher-king who is far more afraid of being in a shopping mall on Black Friday than dangling in the wild exposure of Patagonia or the Rätikon.

Achievements

  • 1st Ascent of the Gift 8c alpine/trad, Drusenfluh Rätikon (Switzerland)
  • 1st ascent of Psychogramm 8b+ trad clean, Bürser Platte (Austria) 
  • 1st ascent of “Piece of Mind” W5I+, M6, clean
  • 1st ascent Mottakopf North East Wall, WI5+, M5+ 600m with Hanno Schluge
  • 1st ascent Mixed Roulette, WI6+/M7/X/120 m with Hanno Schluge
  • 1st ascent Sangre de Toro, 8b+, Rote Wand, Lechquellengebirge 
  • Alex is part of a new generation of talented climbers who have embraced the physical challenge of modern sport climbing and bouldering, but also the romance and adventure associated with traditional climbing and pushing the limits “clean climbing”