Talented and unassuming, alpinist Mike Gardner was a true climber’s climber. He passed away at age 32 while attempting the unclimbed north face of Jannu East, in Nepal. Mike excelled at doing things fast and light, blazing up rock walls and across mountain peaks with trusted partners he loved. Continually drawn to the remote reaches of the planet - Antarctica, the Himalayas, Alaska, the Grand Tetons, Mike’s motivations were pure; to push the boundaries of sport, and do it with ethics, style and homage to those who came before. He climbed and skied for the sake of the craft, not for recognition, impressing everyone with his lack of ego and genuine enthusiasm.

Mike was a proud second-generation mountain guide. Born in Ridgway, CO, he spent his childhood chasing his dad everywhere from the Tetons to Nepal. His first mountaineering trips were at age eight, and he became one of the youngest guides Exum ever hired. He lost his father in a climbing accident when he was 16 - he wrote about the parodox of the mountains giving and taking for Alpinist in 2022, while also evoking the simplicity and spareness of an existence he revelled in - “an expression of life rather than a fight for survival”. Named one of the best skiers under 18 by Powder magazine, he moved on from the competitive freeski scene to seek more personally testing objectives, but was always a wildly beautiful and bold skier. He got an education degree, and devoted his life to the mountains. Industry veterans rated Mike’s ascent on Father and Son’s Wall as worthy of a Piolet d’Or award. He made climbing and skiing expeditions on every continent and never spent twelve months in a row in a single place. A skateboarder, skier, climber, enthusiastic skijorer, writer and mountain guide, he refused to be boxed in by any label and pursued anything that intrigued him. Humble, playful, thoughtful, he was beloved of many, not just for his exceptional abilities, but for his curiosity, optimism and his gift at holding space for other people to flourish in the mountains.

Achievements

• 4th Ascent of Father and Son’s Wall via a new route, Denali (2200 meters) (Alaska Grade V Scottish Grade VI ) over 73 hrs
• Slovak Direct, (AI6 M8-, 9000’), Denali, speed record, 17 hours 10 mins, 2022
• North Buttress’ Bibler-Klewin route, Begguya (Alaska Grade 6: W16 M6, steep snow, 6000’) 36 hours, 2021
• Isis Face, Anubis (Alaska Grade 6: AI5, M6, 6,900’) 2021
• First ski descent of the Northwest Buttress of Denali, (Alaska Grade 4, 65 degrees, 12,7000’) 2021
• Renny Take the Wheel (1,500, 8 pitches, IV 5.11), northwest face of Mt Owen, 2020
• Hot Cars and Fast Women, (850m, M6+) Denali, Ridge of No Return, 2019
• 2nd Ascent of Light Traveler, South Face of Denali (3,000 meters, VI M7 WI6) over 36 hours from camp at 7,800 ft to summit, 2018
• New Route on Peak of No Return, South Buttress of Denali, M5 AI4
• Ascent of Infinite Spur on Mt. Foreaker, While wearing ski boots and carrying skis in order to ski back down the Sultana ridge, all done in a 48 hr single push from Denali BC
• Spent 5 seasons competitive freeskiing with several podium finishes
• Guided 12 Denali climbs, and 6 ascents of the Vinson Massif
• Guided a blind climber on Denali
• Over 150 ascents of the Grand Teton