From a biological technician to a janitor, and then to a fully accredited IFMGA mountain guide, Sam Hennessey’s route into the high mountains has been an unconventional one. Raised in Washington’s Olympic Mountains but now hanging his rope in Bozeman, Montana, he’s become one of the most stealthy ski mountaineers of his generation—though he originally wanted to play pro basketball. Today he’s instead breaking speed records on alpine ascents, and bringing minimalist, lightweight style to high elevations in places like Alaska and the Himalayas. Driven by a vision to lower the impact of mountaineering, Sam seeks to reduce the clutter usually dragged into the high-mountain environment and re-define what it means to be “self supported.” He tries to walk in the footsteps of his idol, basketball legend Gary Payton, by being tough, working hard, and practicing “lock-down” defense in the alpine. As a peak performer, he’s also still intrigued by biology and spends much of his free time reading about it… when not watching NBA games.

Speed record on the Denali Slovak Direct route — 17 hours and 40 minutes

First descent of Denali’s NW Buttress, via the Cassin Traverse

Second ascent of Denali’s Light Traveler.

Foraker ski traverse, Infinite Spur to Sultana Ridge

First Ascent of Barnaj II, 6400m, Kishtwar Himalaya