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Raphael Slawinski

Biographie

I’ve been rock, ice and alpine climbing for some twenty years. Below are some of my more memorable adventures. When not climbing, I’m married with cats and a physics professor at Mount Royal University in Calgary.

Check out my blog for the latest stories and photos.

2013

  • First ascent of K6 West (7040 m) via the northwest face (M6+ WI4+), Charkusa Glacier, Karakoram, Pakistan, with Ian Welsted.
  • First ascents of many mixed routes in the Canadian Rockies: The God Delusion (175 m, M8+ WI5+), Nachtmahr (85 m, M9 WI5), etc.

2012

  • Fourth redpoint of Yamabushi (8 pitches, 12d), Yamnuska, Canadian Rockies.
  • Third redpoint of Wolverine (WI11), Helmcken Falls, BC.

2011

  • Single-push ascents of Common Knowledge (WI6+) and Cassin Ridge, Denali, Alaska, with Joshua Lavigne. The round trips from the 14k camp were accomplished in around 24 hours.
  • First ascent of Tsunami (300 m, M5 WI5+), Mt. Patterson, Canadian Rockies, with Joshua Lavigne.
  • First ascent of The Peach (110 m, WI5 M8), Storm Creek, Canadian Rockies, with Grant Meekins. No bolts were used on the climb.

2010

  • First ascents of Boobquake (10 pitches, WI4+ M5, with Eamonn Walsh) and Can’t Touch This (10 pitches, WI5+ M6, with Simon Parsons and Eamonn Walsh), Tangle Ridge, Canadian Rockies.

2009

  • First ascent of Khani Basa Sar (6440 m, with Ian Welsted) via the southwest rib (AI4+) and attempt on the south face of the unclimbed Pumari Chhish East (ca. 6900 m, with Eamonn Walsh and Ian Welsted), Jutmaru Glacier, Karakoram, Pakistan.
  • First ascent of the Direct Start to The Wild Thing (VI M7 WI5), Mt. Chephren, Canadian Rockies, with Dana Ruddy and Eamonn Walsh. This was also the first single-push ascent of a Canadian Rockies grade VI in winter.

2008

  • First ascent of Dirty Love (12 pitches, M7), Mt. Wilson, Canadian Rockies, with Jon Walsh.
  • First ascent of the Dogleg Couloir (VI M7 A1), Mt. Chephren, Canadian Rockies, with Pierre Darbellay.

2007

  • First ascent of the West Face (V 5.10+), Mt. Alberta, Canadian Rockies, with Eamonn Walsh.

2006

  • First ascent of “Ali Chhish” (6164 m, with Eamonn Walsh) and attempt on the southwest face of the then-unclimbed Kunyang Chhish East (ca. 7400 m, with Ben Firth, Eamonn Walsh and Ian Welsted), Hispar glacier, Karakoram, Pakistan.
  • First ascent of DTCB (V M7), Mt. Andromeda, Canadian Rockies, with Scott Semple.

2005

  • Repeats of alpine rock routes and attempts on the then-unclimbed Hassin and Ferole Far East peaks (both ca. 6300 m) via mixed routes, Charkusa glacier, Karakoram, Pakistan, with Steve Swenson.
  • First ascent of Infinity Direct, Denali, Alaska (M4/5), Denali, Alaska, with Valery Babanov.
  • First winter ascent of Mt. Alberta, Canadian Rockies, via the Japanese Route, with Scott Semple and Eamonn Walsh.

2004

  • First ascent of Aurora (600 m, WI6), Mt. Amery, Canadian Rockies, with Valery Babanov.
  • First winter ascents of the Sphinx Face (V M6, with Valery Babanov) and Greenwood-Locke route (V M6, with Ben Firth), Mt. Temple, Canadian Rockies.

2003

  • Third redpoint (and first flash) of Rocky Mountain Horror Picture Show (M11+) and fourth redpoint of Musashi (M12), Cineplex Cave, Canadian Rockies.
  • First place, Ouray Ice Craft Invitational Competition.

2002

  • First ascent of La Bastille (500 m, 5.11-), Canadian Rockies, with Eric Dumerac.
  • First place, Ouray Ice Craft Invitational Competition.

2001

  • Third ascent of the Lowe-Hannibal route (VI 5.10+ 2xA0), Mt. Geikie, Canadian Rockies, with Eric Dumerac and Jeff Nazarchuk.

2000

  • First Ascent of Animal Farm Direct (M11-), Gulag Cave, Canadian Rockies.
  • First places, Ouray Ice Craft Invitational Competition and Festiglace du Quebec.

1999

  • First ascent of Rocketman (350 m, M7 WI5), Mt. Patterson, Canadian Rockies.
  • Second place, ESPN Winter X Games, Ice Climbing Difficulty.

1997

  • On-sight first free ascent of The Day After Les Vacances de Monsieur Hulot (270 m, M7 WI6), Stanley Headwall, Canadian Rockies, with Matt Collins.

Sponsors
Arc’teryx
Black Diamond
Clif Bar
Scarpa

Check out Raphael's blog at raphaelslawinski.blogspot.com.

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