Jesse Huey
Growing up in the shadow of the Cascade Mountains, adventure and athletics were always at the foreground of my life. While attending the University of Washington, I was introduced to climbing amidst a difficult pursuit of school and a demanding practice schedule of the university’s varsity rowing program. After school I segued naturally into the balance of my profession as a land surveyor and the pursuit of climbing much the same way that I approached the rigors and routine of being a fulltime collegiate athlete.
Twelve years later, while not surveying, I am training for the most beautiful, difficult, remote, technical faces in the world. Be it rock, ice, or mixed, I love them all. In the last several years I have climbed traditionally protected rock climbs up to 5.13, mixed climbed M10, put up first ascents in Asia and Patagonia, repeated one of Alaska’s most difficult grade 6 routes, and also have been incredibly injured in the process. Going climbing is always easy for me, my biggest challenge is maintaining a healthy life balance of my profession, my passion to climb, and my relationships.
A few of my favorite climbs to date:
Free ascent of El Capitan's Freerider with Jeremy Blumel Spring of 2012.
The Slovak Direct Denali's South Face: 80 hour effort with 2 bivouacs climbed with Mark Westman, fifth overall ascent, fourth alpine style ascent.
The Shadow: 5.13, 50m, full ledge-to-ledge free ascent Squamish Chief, August 2010
First ascent of "Last Gringo’s Standing” on Aguja St. Exupery Fitz Roy Massif: Established a 14 pitch new 5.11 route on the Eastern side of St. Exupery Patagonia Argentina.
Free ascent of the Dru Couliour Direct on the North face of the Dru in Chamonix France.
“The Squamish Triple Crown:” 26 hour Linkup with Tim Emmitt of University Wall 5.12b, Roman Chimneys 5.11a, The Northern Lights 5.12a, Freeway 5.11d, 35 pitches no falls: Squamish B.C. Fall 2011
One day free ascent of Zion's Moonlight Buttress
Tague Yer Time: 5.12, 600m 2 day free ascent: Black Canyon of the Gunnison, Colorado
One day ascent of "The Linkup" combining the Regular NW Face of Half Dome & The Nose of El Capitan
New route on Celestial Peak, Southeast Ridge: Sichuan China, Siguniang National Park, 5.11- 40+ pitches
First Ascent of “Gringo’s Perdidos,” North Pillar of Fitz Roy, Established a 9 Pitch 5.11 variation to the Kearney Knight Route on the “Cassarotto Pillar” Patagonia, Argentina.
The Real Big Drip: M7, WI6, 400m, Ghost Valley, Canadian Rockies, Alberta
T2 (mixed start to The Terminator): M7, WI6++, 200m, Mt. Rundle Banff
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