Photos
New Route - Gentleman's Agreement
Rob Pizem frees an old aide line (bigwall) in Zion National Park on January 18, 2009.
Its on the northern most of the Three Mary's formation. The route is called Gentleman's Agreement V 5.9 A2 and was originally completed by FA: Danny Farber, Andy Walker, and Ron Olevsky, March 1981. On Mount Nemea.
The new free rating is Gentleman's Agreement5.13b (7 pitches)
p1 13b tips lliebacking
p2 12b/c variety show with varied gear and styles, lieback tips face stemming hands (everything)
p3 12- flared insecure gear liebacking stemming
p4 12- long reach out roof to tips crack with purple cams out roof to hands in corner
p5 11 hands to big hands
p6 11 5 inch roof offwidth to off width climbing
p7 11 more ow and some chimney
The crux is liebacking 30 feet of dead verticle finger tips (measuring by my fat digits) in a smooth corner on perfect iron tough sandstone. What makes it challenging is the lack of ability to clip the few pitons placed by the first ascencionist team. It makes you choose one of two things, clip them all and feel safe slamming into the corner or run it out and get scared! Since I was not strong enough to clip them all, it was time to get scared and fly. I took numerous 20-30 foot falls while attempting to free the pitch. My tips would give out and once my feet slipped there was no turning back.
The rest on the route climbs the brilliant splitter that drives up the wall in a corner system that runs from top to bottom. Varied climbing on great stone makes this route a true classic, because its easy to aide the crux and free the rest of the route and rap it with one 70 meter rope and gear to 5 inches.
I feel it is important to continue new routing and freeing big rock climbs because without these additions, the climbing community may fall to laziness and complacentcy. It is up to us to continue to forge ahead and see what is possible.
Its on the northern most of the Three Mary's formation. The route is called Gentleman's Agreement V 5.9 A2 and was originally completed by FA: Danny Farber, Andy Walker, and Ron Olevsky, March 1981. On Mount Nemea.
The new free rating is Gentleman's Agreement5.13b (7 pitches)
p1 13b tips lliebacking
p2 12b/c variety show with varied gear and styles, lieback tips face stemming hands (everything)
p3 12- flared insecure gear liebacking stemming
p4 12- long reach out roof to tips crack with purple cams out roof to hands in corner
p5 11 hands to big hands
p6 11 5 inch roof offwidth to off width climbing
p7 11 more ow and some chimney
The crux is liebacking 30 feet of dead verticle finger tips (measuring by my fat digits) in a smooth corner on perfect iron tough sandstone. What makes it challenging is the lack of ability to clip the few pitons placed by the first ascencionist team. It makes you choose one of two things, clip them all and feel safe slamming into the corner or run it out and get scared! Since I was not strong enough to clip them all, it was time to get scared and fly. I took numerous 20-30 foot falls while attempting to free the pitch. My tips would give out and once my feet slipped there was no turning back.
The rest on the route climbs the brilliant splitter that drives up the wall in a corner system that runs from top to bottom. Varied climbing on great stone makes this route a true classic, because its easy to aide the crux and free the rest of the route and rap it with one 70 meter rope and gear to 5 inches.
I feel it is important to continue new routing and freeing big rock climbs because without these additions, the climbing community may fall to laziness and complacentcy. It is up to us to continue to forge ahead and see what is possible.
