New Route on Rocchetta Alta
Arc'athlete Luka Lindič has been climbing since the age of fourteen. He and Luka Krajnc recently climbed a new route on Rocchetta Alta, and here's the account from their point of view.
In June I visited Bosconero for the first time with a group of young Slovenian alpinists. With Luka Krajnc, we climbed a quite serious route Martini-Leoni-Tranquillini (XI-, 650m) in Rocchetta Alta. We did it onsight / flash, exchanging leads. On each belay, we were looking on the overhanging edge right of us. Next day we were already climbing a new route.
We decided to climb it without the use of bolts. In another two visits, we climbed thirteen new pitches in total. After a day of rest on Bosconero hut, we free-climbed the whole route in one day. The hardest pitch goes free at VIII+. The entire route is more or less always following an edge that is overhanging in many places. Generally, the rock is very solid and usually one can climb using only natural protection. We left all the pitons we used in place, so a hammer and pitons are not necessary for skilled climbers. Anyway, we find it harder than Martini-Leoni-Tranquillini because of runout and sustained climbing.
Along with a new route, the climb resulted in some amazing photos which we've put in an album on our Facebook page, have a look.